When I first set foot in Amiens, I thought I was coming for the cathedral, the floating gardens, and maybe a little Jules Verne nostalgia. I didn’t expect to fall head over heels for its food. Yet walking through its cobbled streets, with the scent of butter and roasting meat drifting from every corner, I quickly realized that Amiens has a kitchen full of stories to tell. And I, a hopeless lover of French cuisine, was determined to eat them all.

The city is not Paris, not Lyon, not Bordeaux—it doesn’t try to be. Instead, Amiens whispers rather than shouts, offering simple bistros tucked beside the river Somme, traditional estaminets where recipes are passed down like heirlooms, and modern kitchens where young chefs are quietly experimenting. I made it my mission to turn these discoveries into a kind of edible map, one that any visitor could follow.

In this piece, I’ll take you along with me, stop by stop, meal by meal. I’ll give you the names, addresses, the dishes I ordered, how I booked them, and the tricks I learned for getting the best seats and the best value.

The Heartbeat of Amiens: Les Hortillonnages and Their Flavors

Before I even sat down at my first restaurant, I walked through the hortillonnages, the floating gardens of Amiens. In July, the air smelled green and damp, full of herbs, tomatoes, and cucumbers being cultivated in narrow strips of land surrounded by canals. Later, I discovered that many restaurants in Amiens source produce directly from here. Suddenly, when I tasted a crisp lettuce leaf or a perfectly ripe strawberry in a dessert, I understood its origin.

That’s the secret of Amiens’s food: it’s not about pretension. It’s about closeness to the land, and the way chefs allow ingredients to shine.

La Table d’Hort: A Quiet Revelation

Address: 12 Place Parmentier, 80000 Amiens

I stumbled upon La Table d’Hort one sunny afternoon when I was wandering along Place Parmentier. Its terrace was alive with chatter, and I couldn’t resist sitting down. The interior was elegant but not stiff—soft lighting, rustic wood, and the smell of garlic butter seeping from the kitchen.

The dish that changed my day was their ficelle picarde, a savory crêpe stuffed with ham, mushrooms, and cream, baked until golden and bubbling. It’s the most Amiens of dishes, and here it was perfect: rich, but not heavy, comforting in the way only regional specialties can be. Paired with a glass of local white wine, it was a quiet revelation.

I booked here for dinner a few nights later using LaFourchette (TheFork), and to my delight, they had a 20% discount on selected time slots. This platform is a gem in France: you not only reserve with ease but often unlock special deals that walk-ins never see.

Le Quai: Dining Beside the Somme

Address: 17 Quai Bélu, 80000 Amiens

If there is one area in Amiens where food and setting merge seamlessly, it’s Quai Bélu. Restaurants line the Somme river, their terraces spilling out towards the water. After strolling through the cathedral and the market, I settled at Le Quai for dinner, my table practically brushing the canal.

The must-order dish here is duck breast with red fruit sauce. The sweetness of the berries mirrored the season—it was July, after all—and the meat was tender, cooked exactly à point. I also tried their tarte au Maroilles, pungent and glorious, a nod to northern French cheese that takes no prisoners.

Booking is advisable in the evenings, especially in summer. I learned that Friday and Saturday nights here are packed with both tourists and locals. Again, TheFork saved me: booking online not only secured a river-view table but also ensured I didn’t spend the evening waiting in line.

Le Vivier: For Seafood Lovers

Address: 22 Quai Bélu, 80000 Amiens

Amiens is not by the sea, yet Le Vivier manages to make seafood feel utterly natural here. I came for lunch and ordered a plate of oysters to start, briny and fresh, followed by a sole meunière, pan-fried in butter so fragrant I wanted to bottle it.

The interior was nautical without being kitsch, and the service was warm. I asked the waiter how they sourced their oysters, and he explained they came daily from the Normandy coast. That connection between regions, that flow of flavors, is something I love about northern France.

Reservations are not as urgent here at lunch, but if you want dinner by the water, book at least a day ahead.

Le T’Chiot Zinc: Rustic Charm

Address: 72 Rue Saint-Maurice, 80000 Amiens

On the edge of the city, away from the buzz of Quai Bélu, I found Le T’Chiot Zinc. It felt like walking into someone’s grandmother’s dining room—wooden beams, checked tablecloths, and the kind of menu where every dish tells a story.

The star here is the carbonnade flamande, beef slowly braised in beer, sweet and savory at once. I still remember the way the sauce clung to my spoon, dark and rich, and how I mopped up every last drop with hunks of bread.

This is not a place for quick meals. Come hungry, and come ready to linger. I called ahead to book (no online system here), and the woman who answered the phone spoke no English. My basic French got me through, and it felt rewarding when she greeted me warmly by name upon arrival.

Le Marott’Street: Modern and Playful

Address: 19 Rue Marott, 80000 Amiens

For a change of pace, I sought something modern, and Le Marott’Street delivered. It’s bright, stylish, with an open kitchen and young staff buzzing with energy. Their menu is playful: burgers infused with regional cheese, poke bowls with local twists, and cocktails made with Picard spirits.

The dish that stuck with me was a burger topped with Maroilles cheese and caramelized onions, served with hand-cut fries. It was indulgent, messy, and perfect after a long day of exploring.

I booked through their website directly—simple, no fuss. They often have mid-week specials, so if you’re traveling Monday through Thursday, check for offers.

Aux Saveurs d’Italie: A Detour Worth Taking

Address: 6 Rue Flatters, 80000 Amiens

Sometimes, when you’ve eaten too many crêpes and too much cheese, your body cries out for pasta. That’s when I found Aux Saveurs d’Italie. Tucked away on Rue Flatters, this small trattoria was alive with chatter and the smell of simmering tomato sauce.

I ordered tagliatelle with fresh truffle, and each bite was pure decadence. The chef, an Italian who moved to Amiens years ago, chatted with me about sourcing ingredients from both local farms and Italy itself.

Booking here is essential—there are only a handful of tables. I recommend calling two days ahead for dinner.

Amiens Market: Eating Like a Local

Not every memorable meal in Amiens happens at a restaurant. On Saturdays, the Place Parmentier market becomes a food lover’s paradise. Stalls overflow with cheeses, saucissons, roasted chickens, and fruits that smell like summer itself.

I bought a wedge of Tomme cheese, a baguette still warm from the oven, and a punnet of strawberries, then picnicked by the cathedral. No reservation, no bill—just pure pleasure.

How I Booked and Found Deals

One of the most useful tools during my time in Amiens was TheFork (LaFourchette). Not only could I book tables instantly, but I often found discounts—20%, 30%, sometimes even 40%—on off-peak slots. For a traveler on a budget who still craves fine dining, this was invaluable.

For broader travel planning, I relied on:

• Booking.com for accommodation, from boutique hotels near the cathedral to budget-friendly stays.
• Omio to compare trains and buses when I hopped between Paris and Amiens.
• Airbnb when I wanted a homely base, often with kitchens where I could experiment with local ingredients from the market.
• GetYourGuide for reserving food tours in other cities, which complemented my Amiens discoveries beautifully.

Late-Night Cravings and Hidden Corners

After dinners, I often found myself wandering, looking for something sweet. Pâtisserie Jean Trogneux, at 1 Rue Delambre, became my go-to. They’re famous for macarons d’Amiens, almond-based and slightly chewy, unlike Parisian macarons. I bought a box to take back to my Airbnb, and let’s just say it didn’t last until morning.

Another night, I stumbled upon a small crêperie tucked along Rue des Trois Cailloux. No website, no grand reputation—just the smell of sugar and butter pulling me inside. Their crêpe with salted caramel butter was, in its own humble way, as memorable as any Michelin-star dish.

The Joy of Slowing Down

What I loved most about eating in Amiens wasn’t just the food. It was the rhythm. Meals weren’t rushed; tables weren’t turned aggressively. I could sit for hours, nursing a glass of wine, watching life unfold around me. Coming from cities where time is money and meals are hurried, this felt like an exhale I didn’t know I needed.

Each restaurant, whether rustic or modern, carried that same generosity of pace. And that, in its own way, was as nourishing as any dish.